This is a fat pet feeder.

It's a fully 3D printed automatic arduinopet feeder I made and you can make it too.

It has a slick design, it fits well in anyhome.

For the owner It's easy to use, to clean thebowl, to put more food inside, to set the schedule and portion size.

And for the pet it's not intimidating in anyway.

Why would you ever need one? well, it keeps the pet diet healthy by schedulingthe exact amount of food per day it keeps the food fresh in the closed container– it's important for my cat at least you can be sure that your cat/small dog orother carbon-based form of wife is fed when you're not at homeAlso it's a pretty cool DIY project for kids, adults, schools or robotic cources.

It has a battery compartment, 3 programmablebuttons, a precise portion wheel, tight lid.

It's modular, easy to print and build.

This is the guide on how you can build oneyourself You can get the STLs and the Fusion 360 filesat the link in the description.

The design is parametric so you can changethe size of the feeder or the bowl in the parameters menu.

What off-the-shelf parts do we need? A continuous rotation servo – it's a motorwith a gearbox and a driver in one package of standard dimensions.

I used SpringRC SM-S4303R but you can useany similar.

Any arduino, I use a nano clone.

But if you feel confident, you can definitelyuse wi-fi enabled boards, add embedded cameras, integrate it with smart home services, thereare a lot of options here.

We need 3 standard size microswitches, theseare optional for changing the schedule, the portion size, and to dispense food immediatellyA breadboard or a prototype PCB if you want it soldered, some wires to connect everythingtogether.

A plastic female DC connector.

4 M4 screws with countersunk heads.

I use 10mm in length but any would fit.

5V 3A power supply.

A right-angled version is better.

Maybe some day I'll make a side-socket versionof the feeder.

Stainless steel bowl is optional but it canhelp to avoid cat acne.

It's also dishwasher-safe.

There are several versions in the packagebut you can make your own by changing these parameters.

For a battery version you need 3 D size batteries.

According to my calculations it can work ona one set for at least a year.

A standalone AtMega328p microcontroller oryou can break your arduino to make it less power hungry.

I used the same arduino.

A 5A boost converter for a motor like LM2587An IRL540N mosfet.

I insist on the L version because it has alower gate threshold voltage.

We need it to turn off the boost converterwhen it's not in use.

DS3231 real time clock module with hardwarealarms Capacitors help with the stable voltage.

I use two – one mF and 10mF.

Battery contacts.

I use a steel wire for this purpose.

Maybe I'll change the model later to fit themost commonly used ones.

All the links to the parts are in the descriptionAs for the 3D printing Fat Pet Feeder consists of 8 printed parts.

It's easy to print if you use decent qualityPLA filament – 45 degree overhangs and good 30mm bridges are a must.

$20 ESUN PLA is good enough in my case.

You will need about.

7kg of filament.

2 color prints look cool and you can use pruшacolor print to change your color on certain layer.

It is not print-in-place, parts are printedseparately.

I used 3 perimeters with 20% infill, 6 bottomand 8 top solid layers, default speed.

I print parts in this order to be sure thateverything fits together and is printed well before it's too late:First one is the hopper, it's the hardest oneThen the Portion wheel Wheel compartmentElectronics compartment BowlShell – for which I recommend adding a brim.

Even PLA could warp otherwise.

Also set the seam position to rear if youwant a clean front side.

the next is the Lidand an optional Battery cover Use this circuit for the wall-powered versionAnd this for the battery-powered one The arduino code link is also in the description.

Remove the levers if your buttons have any,we don't need them.

After you connected all the electronic partsput them into your electronics compartment The motor goes into this slot and the buttonsinto these slots This hole is for a DC connectorPut the motor adapter into the wheel Then you put the hopper, the wheel and the wheel compartment into the shell And close it with an electronics part.

Use 4 screws to fixate everything in placeNow you can attach the bowl part, close the battery compartment and the lid.

And this is how it worksBy the way, you don't have to teach your cat to push the button, there's code for scheduledfeeding.

If you need any kind of support, don't hesitateto contact me in the comments – I'll try to answer every single one so you don't haveto struggle much with printing, wiring or coding the feeder.

I want to give away 10 digital models of thispet feeder – 5 in the comments with hashtag #fatpetfeeder and 5 to my patrons on patreon.

Join my patreon to get all the recent modelsI release or maybe you'd like other perks you can get.

I'm planning to make other videos regardingbattery version, customizations you can make and the process of making this design in Fusion360.

I'm going to show all the failed prints, differentversions and timelapses.

Like or dislike this video.

If you want to see more of this device, subscribeto the channel, leave your suggestions in the comments.

Your mom will be proud.